Books

n.d. Indigenous/International: African Style in Global Fashion Book manuscript in preparation.

2008 Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali Republished with new preface, Bloomington: Indiana University Press. Reviewed in African Studies Review, vol 52 #3 (2009): 209-211.

2001 Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali Washington DC: Smithsonian Institution Press. Honorable Mention, Arnold Rubin Outstanding Publication Award, Arts Council of the African Studies Association, 2004 Reviewed in Textile: The Journal of Cloth and Culture, vol 3 #2 (2005): 203-5. Reviewed in African Studies Review, vol 45 #3 (2002): 109-111.

Edited Journals

2009 Guest editor, Fashion Theory. Special issue on African fashion. 13 #2 (June).

Journal Articles

n.d.

“Continuity, Innovation, Fashion: Three Genres of Malian Embroidery,” Under review,African Arts.

n.d.

“Commodities and Modernities in South Africa: Strangelove’s China Bag Fashions,” Under review, Art Journal.

2010 “‘An African Sensibility”: Chris Seydou’s Fashion Innovations,” Africa e Mediterraneo, special issue on African fashion. 69-70 (April): 15-21.

2010 “First Word: FIMA and the Future of African Fashion,” African Arts 43 (2): 1, 4-7.

2010 “Un Podium sur les Bords du Niger: Le FIMA et l’avenir de la mode africaine,”also published in English “Runways in the Desert: FIMA and the Future of African Fashion,” Africultures, published online, 2/27/10. http://www.africultures.com/php/index.php?nav=article&no=9278

2010 “L’Afrique est à la Mode: Un concours-tremplin pour la mode africaine,” Africultures, published online, 2/27/10. http://www.africultures.com/php/index.php?nav=article&no=9279

2009 “Colonialism’s Clothing: Africa, France, and the Deployment of Fashion,” Design Issues, 25 (3): 44-61.

2009 “Viewing Africa through Fashion,” Introduction to special issue, Fashion Theory, 13 (2): 133-140.

2009 “Africa in Paris: Visual Cultures of the Early Twentieth Century.” Review essay on African culture and Africanisms in early twentieth century Paris. African Arts, 42 (2): 92-95.

2008 “Couturiers: L’Afrique est une muse,” Courrier International, Issue 905 (March 6-12): 6-7.

2006 “Mode africaine: réseaux mondiaux, styles locaux,” Africultures, volume 69 (December): 104-109. Republished in Catalogue Officiel: Labo Ethnik 4ieme Edition, 2010 (catalogue accompanying African fashion event in Paris, June 18-20)

2006 “Expanding the Canon: Telephone Wire and Tin Cans.” Review essay on recycled popular arts, using Wired: Contemporary Zulu Telephone Wire Baskets by David Arment and Marisa Fick-Jordaan and Africa On the Move by Stefan Eisenhofer, Karin Guggeis, Jacques Froidevaux. African Arts, 39 (3): 6-10.

2004 “South Africa from North America: Representing a Decade Through Art,” African Arts, 37 (4): 48-55, 94-95.

2004 “Artists and Aesthetics: Case Studies of Creativity in the Ethnic Arts Market,” with Michael Chibnik, Rudi Colloredo-Mansfeld, Molly Lee, B. Lynne Milgram, and Jim Weil. Anthropology of Work Review, 25(1-2): 3-7.

2002 “First Word: The Cultured Body, A Conference at the University of Iowa,” with Sarah Adams. African Arts, 35 (4): 1-8.

2002 “African Art at the University of Iowa Museum of Art: New Permanent Galleries” Tribal: The Magazine of Tribal Arts, 4 (1): 44-53. (Published in French: “Art Africain au Musée d’Art de l’Université d’Iowa”)

2001 “Baba Wagué Diakité: Portfolio,” African Arts, 34 (2): 64–71.

1998 “New Acquisitions: The University of Iowa Museum of Art,” African Arts, 31 (1): 68–75.

1997 “Bogolan in Contemporary Mali: Changing Forms” African Arts, 30 (1): 40–51, 94.

Book and Catalogue Chapters

n.d. “De Poiret à Gaultier: Images de l'Afrique à travers la mode,” in Changing Images of

India and Africa. Edited by Geetha Ganapathy-Doré, Michel Naumann, and Michel

Olinga. Paris: Harmattan. Submitted.

n.d.

“Waving to the Lion: Western Designers, African Style,” in The Art of African Fashion. Edited by Els van der Plas. The Hague: Prince Claus Fund and New York: Thames and Hudson. Submitted and accepted.

n.d.

“Fashion, Youth, and Travel: Embroidered Representations of Modernity in Mali,” in African Dress Encounters: Fashion, Agency, Power. Edited by Karen Tranberg Hansen and D. Soyini Madison. Berg Press (UK). Submitted and accepted.

2011 “West African Embroidery: History, Continuity, and Innovation,” in Africa Interweave: Textile Diasporas. Edited by Susan E. Cooksey. Gainesville, FL: Harn Museum of Art. Submitted and accepted.

2010 “African Fashion: Design, Identity, and History,” in Contemporary African Fashion. Edited by Suzanne Gott and Kristyne Loughran Bini. pp. 88-103. Bloomington, Indiana: Indiana University Press.

2010 “Africa in Iowa: The Stanley Collection at the University of Iowa Museum of Art,” in Representing Africa in American Museums. Edited by Christa Clarke and Kathleen Bickford Berzock. pp. 336-362. Seattle, Washington: University of Washington Press.

2009 “Africas on the Runway: The View from Obama America” in Nine Takes: Voices and Images from Ten Years of South African Fashion Week. Edited by Anthony Tischhauser. pp. 84-87. Johannesburg, SouthAfrica: Channel F. Publishing. Also published in excerpted form in the Mail and Guardian (South Africa’s major English-language newspaper), April 3, 2009.

2007 “Handmade Textiles: Manufacturing African Authenticity,” in Dress Sense: Emotional and Sensory Experiences of the Body and Clothes. Edited by Donald Johnson and Helen Bradley Foster. pp. 133-144. London: Berg Press.

2005 “A Meditation on Meanings: African Fashions, Global Traditions,” in Mode in Afrika: Mode Als Mittel der Selbstinszenierung und Ausdruck der Moderne. Edited by Ilsemargret Luttman. pp. 128-136. Hamburg: Museum für Völkerkunde.

2004 “Cotton, Raffia, Beads, and Bark: Style and Technique in African Adornments,” in Sense, Style, and Presence: African Arts of Personal Adornment. Edited by Susan Cooksey. pp. 12-17. Gainesville, Florida: Harn Museum of Art.

2004 “Fashionable Traditions: The Globalization of an African Textile,” in Fashioning Africa: Power and the Politics of Dress. Edited by Jean Allman. pp. 189-211. Bloomington, Indiana: Indiana University Press.

2004 “Working the Edge: XULY.Bët’s Recycled Clothing,” in Old Clothes, New Looks: Second-hand Fashion. Edited by Alexandra Palmer and Hazel Clark. Oxford, Great Britain: Berg Press. pp. 215-228.

Encyclopedia Entries and Other Publications

2010 “Fashion in African Dress” and “African Fashion Designers” Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Editor in Chief Joanne B. Eicher. London: Berg Press. pp. 62-74.

2006 Faculty Guest Editor, MUSE (magazine published by the College of Fine Arts, University of Florida) Special issue on research in the arts.

2005 “African Art: Eshu Figure,” Essay for teacher guide, Advanced Placement Art History Program. College Board.

2004 “Bogolan,” “Chris Seydou,” “Xuly Bet” in Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Edited by Valerie Steele. Detroit: Charles Scribner's Sons.

Book Reviews

2010 Review of William C. Siegmann, African Art: A Century at the Brooklyn Museum, African Arts. Submitted.

2009 Review of Alissa LaGamma and Christine Giuntini, The Essential Art of African Textiles: Design Without End and Lynn Gumpert, ed. The Poetics of Cloth: African Textiles/Recent Art. International Journal of African Historical Studies 42: 330-31.

2007 Review of Annette Braun, Francine Vormese et al. Mickaël Kra: Jewellery Between Paris Glamour and African Tradition, Africultures 71: 228-231.

2007 Review of Colleen E. Kriger, Cloth in West African History, African Studies Review 50 (3): 169-171.

2005 Review of Pauline Duponchel, Textiles Bògòlan du Mali, African Arts. 38 (3): 84-85.

2004 Review of Mary Jo Arnoldi and Christine M. Kreamer, Crowning Achievements: African Arts of Dressing the Head, Journal of Asian and African Studies 39 (5): 451-453.

2004 Review of Leslie W. Rabine The Globalization of African Fashion, American Ethnologist 31 (2).

2003 Review of Susan Tontore, ed. Cloth is the Center of the World: Nigerian Textiles, Global Perspectives, African Arts 36 (1): 87-90.

2002 Review of Doran H. Ross et al. Wrapped in Pride: Ghanaian Kente and African-American Identity, African Arts 34 (2): 13–14, 91–92.

1999 Review of Robert Farris Thompson and Georges Meurant, Mbuti Design: Paintings by Pygmy Women of the Ituri Forest and Prussin, African Nomadic Architecture, Woman's Art Journal 30 (1): 47–50.

1996 Review of John Picton, ed. The Art of African Textiles: Technology, Tradition and Lurex, African Arts 29 (3): 19, 89–90.

Brochures and Catalogues (except where noted, University of Iowa Museum of Art)

2001 African Inspirations: Sculpted Headwear by Sonya Clark (catalogue) 1999 Renewing Tradition: The Revitalization of Bogolan in Mali and Abroad (catalogue) 1999 Shaping Earth: African Vessels (brochure) 1998 Monumentality in Miniature (catalogue) 1998 Ancestors, Djinns and Orisha: Spirit Beings in Africa (brochure) 1997 Technique and Inspiration: African Fabrics (brochure)

1997 In a New Light: African Art at Grinnell College (catalogue) Editor, contributor, and organizer Grinnell College, Grinnell, Iowa

1996 Tinda Lwimba: A Contemporary Zairian Painter (brochure) Author and translator

1995 Status Symbols: African Textiles and Adornment (catalogue)

1994 Brochures: Ancestors and Art, The Yoruba, Power Sculpture The Brooklyn Museum

International

Refereed Papers

2010 “African Fashion from Dual Directions: Representing Self and Other,” Fashion: Exploring Critical Issues, Oxford, UK

2010 “Embroidered Identities: Indigenous Fashion Systems in Mali (West Africa),” Design and Craft: A History of Convergences and Divergences, Conference of the International Committee of Design History and Design Studies, Brussels, Belgium

2010 “Poiret to Saint Laurent: Images of Africa through Fashion,” Changing Images of India and Africa, Université de Cergy-Pontoise, France [paper selected for conference publication]

2009 “Embroidered Cultures in West Africa: Viewing Travel, Text, and Tradition through Malian Garments,” Broder et Raconter: Embroidery and Storytelling, Université de Rouen, France

2007 “La Mode Africaine: Early 20^th Century Exchanges via Fashion,” French Colonial Historical Society, La Rochelle, France

2005 “Indigenous/International: Contemporary South African Fashion,” Dress in Southern Africa, University of KwaZulu-Natal, Pietermaritzberg, South Africa

2002 “Objects Across Boundaries: Fieldwork in Many Markets,” West African Research Association, Second International Symposium, Dakar, Senegal

1993 “Bogolan In Bamako,” Mande Area Studies Association Conference Bamako, Mali

Invited Lectures

2009 “Bogolan and Beyond: Malian Textiles,” United States Embassy, Bamako, Mali

2008 “Fashion and Power: African Styles and Colonial Encounters,” Humanities Seminar Series, University of Cape Town, South Africa

2008 “Fashion and Power: African Styles and Colonial Encounters,” London International School of Fashion, Johannesburg, South Africa

2006 Panel organizer and presenter, “Expositions and Influences: Africa’s Presence in French Fashion,” Présences Africaines: Contesting Images and Creating Identities University of Florida Paris Research Center, Paris, France

2005 “Dress and Identity,” Fine Arts Department, University of Stellenbosch, South Africa

2003 “Fashioning Africa: Global and Local Identities through Clothing,” University of Cape Town and University of Stellenbosch, South Africa

2003 “Africa through the Lens of Fashion: Work in Progress,” Rockefeller Foundation Bellagio Study and Conference Center, Bellagio, Italy. (workshop as part of residency).

2002 “Interpreting Contemporary Markets in Bamako,” American Embassy Cultural Affairs Office, Bamako, Mali

National

Refereed Papers

2011 Panel organizer and presenter, Panel: “Exchanges and Transformations: The Layered Histories of Objects” Paper: “Sakina M’Sa: Reshaping Histories through Conceptual Fashion Design” Triennial Symposium on African Art, UCLA, Los Angeles, California

2011 Panel discussant, “The Show Goes On: African Fashion on the Global Stage,” Triennial Symposium on African Art, UCLA, Los Angeles, California

2010 Panel organizer and presenter, Panel: “Tradition as Strategy: Art, Architecture, and Material Culture in Modern Africa” Paper: “Branding a Continent” African Studies Association, San Francisco, CA

2010 “Innovation Into Identities: Africas Imagined through Fashion,” Africa on My Mind: Contemporary Art, Home and Abroad, Savannah College of Art and Design, Savannah, Georgia

2009 “Strangelove: Social Action through Fashion in South Africa,” Dress, Popular Culture and Social Action in Africa (Symposium marking 60^th anniversary of African Studies Program), Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois

2009 Panel co-chair (with Sarah Adams) and discussant, “Clothing, Flesh, Bone: Visual Culture Above and Below the Skin,” College Art Association, Los Angeles, California.

2008 “Fashion, Youth, and Travel: Embroidered Images of Modernity in Mali,” American Anthropological Association, San Francisco, California

2007 Panel discussant, “In and Out of Fashion? Politics of Dress and Style in Africa,” African Studies Association, New York, New York

2007 Panel organizer and chair, “The Uses of Tradition,” Triennial Symposium on African Art, Gainesville, Florida

2007 Paper co-author (with Florence Babb) “Heritage Recycled: Objects, Identities, and South African Tourism,” Triennial Symposium on African Art, Gainesville, Florida

2006 “Fashion and Authenticity: Inventing African Style,” African Studies Association, San Francisco, California

2006 Paper co-author and panel co-organizer (with Florence Babb) Panel: “Tourism Revisited: Identity, Culture, and Nation in a Transnational World” Paper: “Beyond the Safari: South African Heritage on Tour,” American Anthropological Association, San Jose, CA

2006 “African Styles/Colonial Categories: Expositions and Other Encounters,” College Art Association, Boston

2005 “The Texture of the Handmade: Manufacturing an Authentic Africa through Dress,” Senses and Sentiments of Dress (Symposium in honor of Dr. Joanne Eicher) University of Minnesota, Minneapolis/Saint Paul

2005 Panel chair and presenter, Panel: “Marketing Identity: Ethnicity, Nationality, and the Politics of the Art Market” Paper: “Identity as Style: South Africa, Fashion, and Tradition,” African Studies Association, Washington, DC.

2004 Panel chair and presenter, Panel: “African Style: Negotiating Identities in Global Fashion Markets,” Paper: “Refashioning Africa: Xuly Bët's Recycled Clothing,” Triennial Symposium on African Art, Harvard University, Cambridge

2004 Panel co-organizer (with Christa Clarke), “Women, Leadership, and Art in Africa,” College Art Association Seattle, Washington

2003 “Negotiating Authenticity: African Textiles in Local and Global Markets,” American Anthropological Association, Chicago, Illinois

2003 “Africa and Africanisms in Global Fashion Design,” College Art Association New York City, New York

2002 Conference co-organizer (with Sarah Adams) and presenter, Paper: “Tradition into Fashion: Representing Africa Through Clothing,” presented at The Cultured Body: African Fashion and Body Arts. University of Iowa Iowa City, Iowa

2002 Panel co-organizer and presenter, Panel: “Beyond Binaries: Globalizing Identities, Objects, and Aesthetics,” Paper: “Migrating Meanings: Africa as Idea and Identity in Global Fashion,” American Anthropological Association, New Orleans, Louisiana

2000 “Africa and the Idea of Africa in Contemporary Fashion,” Triennial Symposium on African Art, St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands

2000 “Moving Through Clothing: African Textiles and Global Fashion,” College Art Association New York City, New York

1998 “Tradition on the Catwalk: Bogolan in National and International Fashion,” Triennial Symposium on African Art, New Orleans, Louisiana

1998 “Recent International Council on Museums Proposals,” Roundtable Triennial Symposium on African Art, New Orleans, Louisiana

1998 “Fashion as Communication: Mudcloth and Ethnicity,” The Premium on Communication: African Languages in the Visual and Performing Arts, University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wisconsin

1996 “Filtered Authenticity and the Western/Non-Western Dichotomy,” College Art Association, Boston, Massachusetts

1995 Panel organizer and presenter, Paper: “An African Textile Abroad: The Bogolan Explosion in Mali and the U.S.” Panel: “Reshaping the Boundaries of Tradition” Triennial Symposium on African Art, New York City, New York

1994 Panel co-chair and presenter, Paper: “Bogolan in Bamako: The Revitalization of a Traditional Art Form” Panel: “The Urban Milieu and the Visual Arts of Africa and the Diaspora” Co-chair: Kathleen Bickford-Berzock African Studies Association, Toronto, Canada

1993 “Bogolan In Bamako: Changing Texts,” Institute for Advanced Study and Research in the African Humanities, Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois

1992 “The Predicament of Contemporary African Artists,” Project for the Advanced Study of Art and Life in Africa, University of Iowa, Iowa City, Iowa

Invited Papers

2011 “Global Africa: Reading Culture through Fashion,” Minneapolis Institute of Art, Minneapolis, Minnesota

2011 “Chic Matters: Insights into African Cultures,” Harn Museum of Art, Gainesville, Florida

2009 “Current Research: Malian Embroidery,” Harn Museum of Art, Gainesville, Florida

2009 “Beads and Beyond: Fashion and History in South Africa,” Harn Museum of Art, Gainesville, Florida

2008 “Strangelove: Wearing Art, Performing Fashion in South Africa,” Threads: New Research on African Textiles, National Museum of African Art, Washington DC.

2008 “Fashioning Africa: Culture and History through Textiles,” Florida Institute of Technology, Melbourne, Florida

2008 “Cloth and Culture in Africa: Communicating through Clothing,” San Diego Museum of Art, sponsored by African Arts Council of the San Diego Museum of Art

2007 “Kente Cloth: National and International Symbol,” Ghana’s Legacy: Fifty Years of Independence,” University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida

2007 “African Fashion: Design, Tradition, and Global Trends,” Museum of International Folk Art, Santa Few, New Mexico

2006 “Africa’s Fashion Worlds,” Museum Quality: Collecting and Exhibiting Fashion and Textiles, Fashion Institute of Technology Annual Symposium, New York City, New York

2005 “African Fashion in Global Networks,” Perspectives on African Dress Symposium Newark Museum, Newark, New Jersey

2005 “Cotton, Raffia, Beads and Bark: Style and Technique in African Adornments,” Samuel P. Harn Museum of Art, Gainesville, Florida 2005 “Africa As Style: Negotiating Identities Through Fashion,” Baraza lecture series, Center for African Studies, University of Florida, Gainesville, Florida 2003 “Bogolanfini to Mudcloth: A Malian Textile’s International Travels,” Textile Curatorial Council, Minneapolis Institute of Arts, Minneapolis, Minnesota 2003 “Multiple Identities, Global Markets,” Dankun: Intersections (conference on bogolan) Brown University, Providence, Rhode Island 2001 “Wearable Tradition: African Textiles and International Fashion,” Fleeting Objects: Assessing the Allure of Material Culture, University of Iowa, Iowa City, Iowa

2001, 2002 “What Makes it Traditional? African Textiles and Contemporary Styles,” Presented at University Art Museum, University of California—Santa Barbara (2001) and at the Neuberger Museum of Art, Purchase, New York (2002)

2000 “African Cloth and Modern Markets,” The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, Kansas City, Missouri 2000 “Migration in Dance and Design,” a dialogue with dancer/choreographer Bill T. Jones University of Iowa Museum of Art, Iowa City, Iowa 1999 “African Textiles: Tradition and Modernity,” University of California, San Diego and San Diego State University 1999 “Haute Couture Africa: Traditional Textiles in a Global Market” Northwestern University, Evanston, Illinois

1999 “Marketing Tradition: Authenticity and African Textiles,” Textiles in Changing Times Identity and the Remaking of Tradition, UCLA Fowler Museum of Cultural History, Los Angeles, California

1996 “Bogolan Fashion in Africa and Abroad,” Project for the Advanced Study of Art and Life in Africa, Iowa City, Iowa

Exhibitions at Other Institutions

African Art Des Moines Art Center, Des Moines, Iowa. April, 1998 In a New Light: African Art at Grinnell College

Grinnell College, Grinnell, Iowa. May 1–June 20, 1997

African Furniture and Household Objects The Brooklyn Museum of Art, New York. 1994–95